Rheinsteig - Leutesdorf to Linz via Bad Hönningen

Welcome to the 35^th and, somewhat sadly, the final entry in the Letters From Bonn blog. Today is another Rheinsteig stage from Leutesdorf to Linz via Bad Hönningen; a trek of 30+ kilometres according to www.rheinsteig.de and, trust me, I was feeling all of those 30k when I finally stumbled into Linz as dusk was beginning to fall.

As ever, the signposting for the trail is marvellous. As I stepped off the train in Leutesdorf there was a yellow Rheinsteig sign (yellow for the ‘feeder’ track to the main trails which are marked in blue). So, within minutes I was climbing the first of three pretty tough rises before lunchtime.

Leutesdorf below with Andernach lurking beneath the fog on the other side of the Rhine; views like this make the climbs well worthwhile!

The view from the first of these rises allows a look to Leutesdorf, then the Rhine with Andernach on the other side of the river. The day was cool and the mists were circling, giving Andernach an almost unearthly perspective.

The first major landmark was to be Ruine Hammerstein but along the way I couldn’t help but notice this amazing contraption.

5 Star Accommodation for the flying insect world

The sign post beside calls it the ‘Insect hotel for wild bees, wasps and bumblebees’ and I couldn’t help but be impressed by the detail and effort the local folks had gone to create this mini hotel.Ruine Hammerstein is a genuine ruin; almost a pile of rocks that bears passing resemblance to the mighty castle it must have once been. Rounding the trail, Hammerstein sits high and proud on a massive rock promontory that allows views for miles up and down river; the perfect strategic location. However, this is more than a ruin. The other castles we have visited have been beautifully restored so as to give an amazing image of what these mighty burgs must have once looked like. But to pay for these renovations, they have been transformed into hostels, hotels and restaurants. This is fine and would be wonderful places to stay but it is difficult to imagine how these castles must have been 500 or more years ago when you spy guests enjoying a sit down meal or students running about or people moving their luggage via modified golf carts.

A recognisable wall at Ruine Hammerstein

This is not a problem for Ruine Hammerstein. For a start, there is a track to the site that is barely wide enough for one person. Walking the track it is easy to imagine being back in the 14^th Century, perhaps returning from a patrol or a hunting party? I’m almost waiting to be challenged by a sentry!

As you round the corner, the outer walls come into view and you enter what would have been the original forecourt. Perhaps it was just the day; so cold, drizzly and a little misty. Perhaps it was apparent from the lack of tracks on the trail and in the ruin that I was the first person there today and that I had the entire site to myself. But there was a wonderful eeriness here; a feeling of being observed; not in a malevolent way but there was definitely a ‘vibe’.

It was wonderful! To simply stand in that space, with trees now growing where the square before the keep would have been, was breathtaking. With eyes closed, I could almost hear the sounds of conversations; of orders being given; of the ring of iron on anvil from the smithy; of the rattle of horses’ reins. It was quite spooky but in an amazingly clear and wonderful way. I felt almost transformed back in time. And all of this from a ruin; quite a spectacular way to spend a morning!

The next stop on the walk was Rheinbrohler Ley; a crop of rocks high above the village of Rheinbrohl. The views here again are spectacular as it feels as if Rheinbrohler Ley is hanging over the road and the railway lines below. Looking over the edge, I felt that I was staring directly into the Rhine itself. The pictures speak for themselves.

Looking downstream from Rheinbrohler Ley ...

... and looking upstream from Rheinbrohler Ley

From here the rest of the walk was a collection of farms, forests and villages. All of them beautiful and delightful in their way. There were so few people on the trail today; I probably passed and greeted maybe ten people. So the feeling of solitude was remarkable.

Dairy cows at ease along the heights of the plateau above the Rhine

One thing new I noticed along the trial were crucifxes and shrines that I hadn't seen previously, These shrines were, in various ways, exhorting the hiker to stop, pause, reflect and even give a prayer of thanks. With All Saints Day only last Thursday, some candles remained in place.

As near as I can make out , the carved sign in yellow says 'Stop O Wanderer and remember that wherever you go, the Madonna is with you.

Eventually I found my way to Linz and what a beautiful town it is. The town square is broad and wide; it would have been great to see the market in operation on Saturday; the hustle and bustle would certainly have warmed things up.

The old Gatehouse into Linz; Burg Linz is to the right.

Burg Linz can date itself to the early 1300’s. Now set up as a restaurant and antique stores, it looks great. One of the city gate houses still survives and the nearby buildings all conspire to bring a feeling of great antiquity. Well worth a look, especially (I suspect) on a market day when the place would be jumping.

Market Square in Linz (two photos pasted together)

But the feel of Ruine Hammerstein remains unmatched on any of these day trips; a sublime feeling of being lost in time. Not a bad way to finish these entries.