Friday, April 6, 2012

Alter Friedhof - Old Cemetery


Bonn's Alter Friedhof or Old Cemetery remains a peaceful enclave on a plot of land surrounded by busy roads along two sides and the main railway line to Cologne at another end. Outside the cemetery, the roads buzz and roar with traffic and the general busy-ness of 21st Century life. However, walking through the gates of the cemetery seems to let the noise and hububb susbide and disappear. Respect is the word that leaps to mind; the cemetery is impeccably neat. The paths, the gardens and the graves themselves are immaculately maintained. There are graves from the early 1800’s but I would have to assume that the headstones have been updated or renovated as they are so legible and look so modern.
To the left you can see Ludwig von Beethoven’s mother’s grave. Unmarked until 1932, Frau Beethoven’s grave is understated but neat. The headstone reads: ‘Here Lies Beethoven’s Mother. Maria Magdalena Beethoven nee Keverich. 17 July 1787. She was a good and kind mother to me, she was my best friend.’ Beethoven returned from Vienna within days of his arrival to be at his mother’s death bed. The final quote is obviously believed to be Beethoven’s; what good son could say less about his mum?
There are is a small chapel in the centre of the cemetery and a multitude of graves laid in this picturesque setting.
Another famous person buried here is the composer Robert Schumann and his wife.

It is interesting to compare the 2 graves. The Schumanns dominate a central section of the cemetery while Frau B has a small plot against the wall of the cemetery. Compare Frau B's simple headstone with the intricacy of the Schumanns. Neither is better; its just interesting to observe.
Tours are run regularly, which is a good thing as I felt a little intrusive with my camera in hand. But there's no problem as long as you bring the right level of respect. That should be no stretch of behaviour as the cemetery demands respect; respect for the place and the people resting here. Well worth a visit.

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