Sunday, April 15, 2012

Mechernich, Satzvey and Kommerm

I caught the train to Mechernich (about 50 minutes from Bonn Hauptbahnhof via Euskirchen) for two reasons. Firstly because Mechernich is within the zone for my travel pass so it didn't cost anything (who said I was cheap??) but the main reason was to visit the Roman Villa nearby.

However, the best laid plans of my mice and men do oft go awry; or something like that. For me, I saw the Satzvey Castle from the train on the way in to Mechernich . Damn!
How do you go past a castle and not drop in?
Well, apparently I don't. Never mind that it was a 7km walk back to Satzvey; we're talking castles! Here are some pictures too. What do you think?
It looks lovely doesn't it?
But I think that might be the extent of Satzvey Castle; it looks amazing but I'm not sure that it's quite 'right'. Is it the fact that I was there right on midday when it was opening so it was a little quiet? Was it the selection of shops that were on the premises? I didn't quite get a vibe of history from the Italian restaurant set up in the corner; anyone for some medieval pizza; would you like some ye olde bruschetta with your lasagne?
But the image that captured the visit for me was the advertisement for 'Hexenfest'. A pseudo spell fest indeed! Could be a fun way to spend May Day (check out www.burgsatzvey.de and I'll book tickets for you).
So I think I've decided that the castle might be a great venue for these sorts of events. In fact, September has a tourney scheduled. Imagine this backdrop for duels, jousts and other games? This might work and work well. I forwent the tour as I would have to wait an hour and it was to be in German only.
Having walked this far I also expected to run into the Katzensteins or Cat Stones. But I had trekked up on the wrong side of the railway and couldn't get across. So I came back along the road and had a look. For those who have seen Hanging Rock just out of Melbourne, then Katzensteins is similar but a lot smaller in scale. However, Hanging Rock is always packed with people and it loses it's effect with crowds all over the place. Katzensteins was just me and the rocks; and it was kind of fun to slither and climb through the gaps in the rocks with no noise apart from the odd bird call. So very pretty but also very compact.

Another opportunity is the amazing array of walks available. Trails wander through the forests all over Germany and notice boards are filled with maps describing a variety of trails you can try. These trails are rated on difficulty as well as distance and time required. I took photos of these maps but I will see if I can find a website to download these maps. The walks would be fun and a chance to see another part of Germany.
From Katzensteins I decided to cut back across the train line (yes, I found a way across once I left Katzensteins. I'll know for next time) and head up to Kommerm. I'd read what a beautiful town Kommerm was and thought it might be worth a look.
There is a German saying that translates as 'April, April will do what it will' when it comes to weather. Earlier this month, we had beautiful sunny days with temperatures in the high teens. Today, it is cold and overcast and, when the wind blows from the north, it feels like its coming directly in from the Pole itself. I'll have to check the temperature when I get home but it is miserably cold today,
I'm sitting in a coffee shop in Kommerm way too early in the afternoon. I just needed to get in out of the cold for twenty minutes or so. As I write this, I can feel my ears begin to burn as the blood begins to flow through them again.
Kommerm is simply beautiful.
The town was established in 1229 and it feels like they've been assiduously working to make the town more picturesque since that year. And they have just about got it right :)
The church sits at the top of the town and sets up the view as you walk in from Komerm South. Walking past the church, you can see the road narrows virtually to the width of a small car. Over time, the church and a nearby retaining wall have conspired to have a gap wide enough for coach but barely enough for a car today. But nothing can be done as both church and wall are here to stay.
These mini lane ways and small pedestrian access ways are all over this village. It provides wonderful charm for me as a visitor but must drive the locals crazy; actually, I guess its just how it is and life moves on.
Certainly, as a pedestrian you're kept on your toes as drivers have no hesitation driving up and over the sidewalk when they have to pass another car. They're experts at it too as they got close to me a few times but never actually made contact!
In Kommerm they have maintained the wood and render facades in their original black and white colors. It looks marvellous; especially when you see one where the second storey begins to bow or warp.
This place on the left looks original and, in fact, across the lintel is a statement advising that this place was built in 1721; amazing to think that folks have been living, working, eating, drinking, fighting and loving for all of this time. If these walls could talk ...
Springtime will see this town literally in full bloom; the window boxes will glow with fresh flower color, the streets will ring with parades and even the local markets and, I suspect, a good time will be had by all.
Leaving Kommerm I decided to head back to Mechernich and see if there was enough time to check out the Roman Villa. The walk back was further than I thought; as well, I stumbled across a Trodel Markt; a Flea Market to some and Trash and Treasure to other readers. No matter what you call it, people seem compelled to look in every box of rubbish to find that glimmer of gold. It amazes me we continue to look because we so rarely find anything let alone something of huge and wonderful value. So that wasted another 30 minutes in my day and I didn't find any treasure amongst the trash.
I stumbled into Mechernich and headed across town to the Roman Villa. But I never made it. A combination of time and tired caught up with me. I got to that point where I knew I would miss my train if I went any further. And I also knew that after 25km walking today my tired little legs might not get me back to the bahnhof as quickly as they might have earlier in the day.
A good call as I made it to the station with 5 minutes to spare and I'm writing this on the train back to Bonn.
So not a bad day; Kommerm is a treasure but Satzvey, although not trash does need an event to make the place lift a little.
I'll be back to Mechernich for the Roman Villa and the other Roman places I found out walking around today. There's quite the day trip there; a mini Roman Holiday, if you will.
Sorry.
Have a great week!

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